afritracks news 21.03.04


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Algeria


"... I felt like in Gaza ..."

The readers of the Swiss motorbike magazine Töff already know, that one of their writers Michael Kutschke bought news from his Cameroon-Niger-Algeria-Tunisia-trip. Even if somebody don't care about security, he will not have fun travelling Algeria this time. Apart from the border post in Taleb Larbi the numerous military and police checkpoints are not only unpleasant. They can get quite nasty. Travelling is allowed only with guide and on tarmac (that's what all travellers from South to North report). The fee for the guides you can only describe as modern caravan protection money: In Guezzam - Tam = 400 Euro. Michael's group therefore entered at Djanet. For the further travelling from Djanet to Taleb Larbi they had to pay 560 Euro: 3 days tarmac with 30 to 40 military checkpoints. Travelling without guide is not possible: When Michael sometimes travelled in front with his motorbike, they always got in trouble at the checkpoints. Places for the night were allocated. Preferentially beside the street and at patrol stations. If the guests want to pitch up their tent 50 metres beside in the dunes, they got in trouble again. The checkpoints are nervous, seemed to be not informed and always starting interrogations. Djanet - Tam is closed of safety reasons for tourists with own vehicle even if they have a local guide. But the safety reasons obviously disapearing in reverse direction Tam - Djanet: The travel agencies from Tam are allowed to take this route with their flight tourists. Reaching Taleb Larbi the conclusion of the guide was: "Now I know, why nobody is coming anymore. This is not a journey, this is a torture."

Niger

Dirkou - Djanet is officially close. Even with guide there was no possibility to get a permission for Michael Kutschke's travel group. Djado inevitable is taboo. Actual information from the German discussions in the Sahara-Info.ch showing more of the picture: Even with strict obligation for local guides for Air and Tenere there is no protection guaranteed.

Libya

Travellers returning from Libya confirming the guide practice. The last group we know, even was forced to take a further security guide. The only got rid of them at the departure. However rumours keep themselves persistent that the visa politics are to be liberalized.
We hope there will be new reports from other travellers, who return from their Libya trip this weekend.

Sudan

As we heard Bradt is working on a travel guide for Sudan. It is supposed to appear in December.

Tanzania

Different travellers told us about the new fence at the popular Campsite Kipepeo (Dar es Salaam). It is a see-through fence, made from thin tree branches chest-high (for me that means probably up to the vertex; -) ). It has been installed after an incident. They also put armed guards on duty like it is already usual at other campsites. This is what the owners confirmed. But they told us that they didn't seal up the beach ;-) and the picturesque cows can still take their walk along the beach in the evenings.

Kenia

There is still roadwork going on at the notorious road Mombasa - Nairobi (200 km are already ok).

The swiss couple Rene and Sonia Kaegi met an English couple in Nairobi who was mugged on their way to Moyale. Curiously they got their mobile phone, their GPS and other value stuff back in Nairobi. Only the considerable amount of money, the credit cards and the robbers were still missing. Unfortunately it seems, the now got the opinion that tourist bring in more than cattle and locals (which have been the victims of the usual armed robberies on this stretch so far). Details are published in German in the 10. newsletter at www.rs-verlag.ch.



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